Kling, Glöckchen, klingelingeling!

I do not know how I came to the end of this trip. The rate at which time has passed by never fails to astonish me. I remember laying down to nap in early September, exhausted and thinking "Enjoy even the exhaustion; before I know it, I shall be home napping in my other bed." So correct was I in that moment; before I could say "whoa" the end just sped up to meet me. This blog though has helped me to slow down a few moments enough to keep a solid connection with what this adventure really means to me. It is a challenge designed to force me into an area so unfamiliar and uncomfortable that I have no choice but to build up the courage and try to overcome every set-back with grace and intelligence. I like to think that I did all of that. I am sure there were a few less than excellent moment, and I have made a lot of mistakes, but I am damn proud of everything I have done. Life at home, in Guelph and in University, are going to be much more "doable" now, I think. No more wasted time, not after learning of its extreme value over here.

I still need to catch up on the very busy events of November, but I think that that will have to wait in light of a more recent holiday, Christmas! My Oma sent me a letter in November commenting on how Christmas time in Germany was such a wonderful thing to experience, and that she was happy I would get the chance to experience it and that she wished she could be here also for it. How very right she was! Germany knows how to celebrate the holiday. It is not all about presents; there are solid, old traditions to adhere to. At the end of November opens all of the Weihnachtsmaerkte (Christmas Markets) throughout Germany. Each features similar stalls full of food, jewelry, ornaments, clothing, or wood carvings, but each town also has a different way of presenting these stalls. I have been to several: Wetzlar, Giessen, Oldenburg, Bremen, Mannheim, and Freiburg. I could not say which is my favourite, although I found the Gluhwein in Freiburg to be the best, and the worst in Bremen (complete opposite ends of Germany also, mind you). On the 6th of Dezember visits a very important man, St. Nikolaus, to fill our shoes with candy, nuts, and fruit. Before bed on the 5th, Mia excitedly and carefully laid out our shoes, two-by-two, so as to make his job easier, and when I came upstairs the next moring, Mia ran to show me gifts left from the revered old Saint. I received a hand warmer for my pockets and a ticket to the Handball game the next day.

Speaking of Handball, Caillin and I went to a home game featuring HSG Wetzlar gegen TuS N-Luebbecke. We were both told over and over again that we absolutely must experience a handball game, as it seems that the sport is very popular here aside from perhaps Fussball. One of the team member on the Wetzlar team used to also rent a room from Oma Marietta, the Oma of the children that lives just around the corner from us here on Hohe Str. The game was really interesting, although Wetzlar lost, and I definitely experienced a different side to sports by watching it. Throughout game play there is a lot of grabbing and pulling and shoving, but the moment someone gets too forceful or a player is pushed/pulled down, the whistle blows (sometimes a time out is given), and irrespective of team, the players will help the fallen up. Some apologize for getting to pushy, pating each other on the back and shaking hands. It is a very "gentlemanly" game, I guess you could say; except the uniforms are horridly unflatering.

Back to Christmas time, from a previous post I of course went to Visbek to see family from the 16th to the 20th, was home in time to celebrate Tom's 38th birthday on the 22nd, and then set up the Christmas tree on the 23rd. The tree is real this year; lush and classically decorated. One thing that is very different though is that Germans use candles (real or fake) to light there tree, whereas we tend to use twinkle-lights. It is a traditional thing aimed back to the first instance of the Christmas tree when there were of course no such thing as twinkle-lights (although I am still not sure if I would have REAL candles on my tree). The 24th is traditional Christmas in Germany. At around 18.00 the 4 of us (Tom, Astrid, Mia, and I) went to the church for a children's Christmas mass. We actually had quite a lot of snow, and owing to his young age, Tim stayed home with Oma Marietta, were it was cozy and prehaps not so boring. Church was really nice. It was Evangelical, so certainly a different experience from my traditional Roman Catholic, but nice and interactive. We sang a lot, and there was a childrens guitar group there to provide the music behind our voices. We also opened the last Chritsmas window. Throughout Dezember, to celebrate the advent and also resembling those chocolate advent calendars (another very popular thing in Germany), different families each night would host a window. These windows were decorated and numbered all throughout Muenchholzhausen, and we would gather at each to drink Kinderpunch, eat some Lebkuchen, and to sing. Of course St. Nikolaus would meet us there with a little something for the kids. He was not there at the church, since I think then we would be mixing too many traditions.

After church we walked back to the house, the other three throwing snowballs at each other, since snow is, again, such an anomally this early in the season. I continued to walk on, keeping in mind that while beautiful, there is still a lot waiting for me back in Kanada. And it has been beautiful; snow for Christmas was a wonderful gift. Oma Ingrid and Opa Hubert (Tom's parents) came a little later and it became all of our jobs to keep Mia occupied in the basement playroom so that the Christkind (baby jesus) could bring presents to our loving house. Yes, baby Jesus brings us present over here. Apparently Santa is too busy over in North America. He did come, none-the-less, and an unbelievably excited Mia was very careful to come up the stairs without scaring the baby Jesus away, lest he take present back with him in his fear. He rings a bell when he comes.

We opened presents right then. Mia jumped around looking for everything with her name on it. I remember that excitement well; tearing everything open, and then looking frantically around for what else might be left for you untouched. For me, I received Asbach filled chocolates from Oma Ingrid and Opa Hubert (finished one box, delicious!), a hand knit scarf from Oma Marietta (a beautiful purple colour), and from Tom and Astrid, "Die echte Deutsche Kueche" (an amazing cookbook!) and a calendar featuring pictures of the family. I do not know which present was the best. Every single piece has a meaning behind it; a strong memory. It was one of the most wonderful Christmases that I have ever experienced, although I know that it is not over yet. There is still Christmas in Kanada. The excitement for the day as a child is unequatable, but the meaning that forms behind the holiday as an adult is my favourite part.

Dinner followed (it was amusing to watch an antsy Mia, told to eat while her new toys awaited her), for which we had Raclette. I had tried the cheese before on bread down in Freiburg, and while it is a very smelly variation, it tastes fantastic heated up. In the middle of the table was set up a raclette grill. On the top part was the grill, more for meat, and underneath the grill was six individual pans. In these pans you would fill up with mushrooms, fruits, shrimp... you name it... and a slice of cheese (maily raclette, but we had others), let it melt together, and eat it while warm with a side of potatoes and salad. The concept is similar to fondu, actually, just perhaps heartier since you can make so much more food quickly. I really liked the concept, and Tom gave me a small, individual raclette cheese heater, so I can make the cheese and bread piece whenever I would like to now. Following dinner I did quite a few shots of potatoe schnapps (unbelievably good) with Tom, Astrid, and especially so with the two Omas. In fact, when Tom and Astrid stopped, the Omas continued, feeding me schnapps all along the way. I can not say that I minded; it was fun and I heard a lot of stories.

The 25th was my day off to celebrate Canadian christmas a little. I called family and friends back home.

And now here I am, waiting on Leslie to arrive and finishing up a bit of packing here and there. Yesterday was my last official work day, and today I get co-op paper work completed before celebrating with the family. We are going to have a small party here for my leaving, making Schnitzel, Pilzsauce, Kraut, Kloese, and Strudel; a very hearty German meal. Leslie will be here for it, the family, Oma Marietta, and my dear Au-Pair friend Caillin. Afterwards Caillin, Leslie, and I will go to a grill party hosted by Caillin's host family, and then maybe further after that we will go to the local bar at the Tennishalle for one last drink together. How bitter-sweet it all is.

-Candles

Wenn ich nur konnte...

Today I rode my last DeutscheBahn train of my entire time here. It was a bitter-sweet experience, since every train in Western Germany seems to be running a perpetual 30 minutes behind (if you are lucky, that is), but it is still a luxury to be able to travel so easily within Europe. I was visiting my dear friend and frequent travel partner, Leslie, as she prepares to pack up and leave Mannheim. She is flying back to Canada the same day that I am, just at a 10min difference on another plane with several stop overs. Have fun, Leslie. My flight is direct.
This visit had the added bonus of another friend from back home, Nicholas Wuestefeld. Such a German last name. He has only been here for a week, and if flying back to Canada tomorrow from Frankfurt. He decided to have a mini-vacation (and apparently his first) while the lot of us are over here completing a semester or year abroad. Together the three of us visited the main Mannheimer Weihnachtmarkt, which was beautiful, large, and really not all that packed with people, although it is a Tuesday. As we stuffed our faces with Flammkuchen and Pommes, I could not help but notice that it is significantly warmer in Mannheim. Is it only Hessen and all that is north that has been hit by Winter? I doubt it, but man, is that not fair. I am freezing my arsh off up here. That winter came so quickly is quite a surprise to every German here. Normally in Hessen there is not a lasting layer of snow until late January. Evidently I brought the snow over with me from Canada, or so I am told. I could have done with the delayed snow fall, but I guess a white Christmas is in order. Hopefully it stays until then, while over the next few days the temperature is set to get a little warmer and it will rain a lot. Snow leading up to Christmas, but then gone by that day?
I feel as though I have been doing a lot of travelling this past week. First there was Visbek from Thursday until Monday, and then today, Mannheim. I can not begin to count the number of trains that I have hopped to and from with connections. The final two days of Visbek were unbelievably wonderful. On the Saturday I went with my cousin Franzi and her new beau to Oldenburg for the Weihnachtmarkt. I have never seen Oldenburg before, and while it was very, very cold, it was so beautiful. The Markt was set up in the Aldstadt (old part of town), around the church, and stretched on in so many different directions. We looked around a bit, drank some Gluehwein, which tastes pretty good in Oldenburg - the worst that I have had yet was in Bremen during the time I was waiting for my connecting train - and ate by a little chain restaurant called "Hardy's." It may be fast food there, but the atmosphere is very classy. It is themed around the turn of the 20th century. I ate currywurst, which I knew that I had to try in Germany at least once before leaving since it seems to be pretty popular. Actually, the Germans cook often with curry.
The Sunday following I had forgotten to set my alarm, and so I slept until about 11.00, which is ridiculous considering that I went to bed at 22.00 the night prior. I have been sick for the past 5 days; just a regular cold, but I have not slept that long in ages! My cousins Franzi and Niklas slept in quite late also, and Louisa was not there that night. Sunday was a quiet day then, a much needed quiet day, and I think that the rest really did me well. That night I visited more family down the street (everyone seems to live so close together) and answered questions about how everyone back in Canada is, what I have been doing, and how I have found my time here in Germany. That last question is answered with a simple whine about how I am not ready to go back.
With school supposedly on Monday (it ended up "snowed out"), I said goodbye to my cousins and wished them well, encouraging them to come visit and stay by Monique and myself when they get the chance. It was my first real taste of the goodbyes I am going to have soon, and I did not like it at all. While I was anxious to get the travelling back to Wetzlar over with, I could have stayed there easily another day or two without question. It was really too short. Life started up again for my family on Monday though, with errands to run and the cousins having a day off of school. I spent the morning getting some fresh air around tiny Visbek, and taking pictures. I had almost forgotten how adorable the town is. The locals probably are sick of how small it is, on some level, but to my foreign eye, it was heaven brushed with snow.
Franzi, Uncle Werner, and Tante Afra drove me to my train that afternoon, and I hugged them tightly before hopping onto the train. It is a painful memory, thinking of their faces through the train window as it pulled away. Afra mentioned that she had wished they had done more with me while I was there, but in all honesty, the rest was what I needed. I am so fortunate to have such an amazing family, and one that only would speak German with me to boot! The practice did me wonders also.
The trip to Visbek I had been waiting for since I got here. I knew that it would be wonderful to see the family again, but I also knew the once the visit was over, I would only have a week and a half left in Germany. That is the point that I am at now. When I left Visbek, time sped up again. Six hours on trains to Wetzlar can eat up an afternoon in the blink of an eye. I was home by 20.00 Monday night. Mia was still awake, and she ran to welcome me home and tell me about her weekend. I am going to miss that little girl's tiny arms.

-Candles

Visbek

I realize that I have failed to write for the remainder of November, and while much has gone on since I last wrote, I am choosing to focus first on my current situation. I will have to recount the numerous events of November later.

Today I find myself in Visbek, the birth place and childhood home of my dearest Opa, and the small town in which much of the Wuebbolt family still lives. I have been here once before, two years ago when I was 20, and while there are small changes to the structures here, the feel has remained much the same. I do not know how or why it happened, but the moment I entered the small town I felt an immediate affinity with it. Perhaps it is because the memory of its streets runs through my blood. The Wuebbolts have been tied to this place for centuries (since the 1600s, if I do not stand corrected), and only recently, with a previous generation, has the Wuebbolt family not lived in the same house as always before. I can still see the house where my Opa and his 8 other brothers and sisters were born and raised. It is now covered in a dark red-brown brick and is divided into several apartments, but before it was part of a gloriously fruitful piece of land, with a large garden and also once a factory building from when the family tailoring business had expanded. They made beautiful clothing there, and my Oma and mother both have a few dresses that were made there. The factory building is no longer there either, having been replaced with two smaller apartment buildings (fortunately not high rises), and while they are very clean, presentable structures, they are just not the same as those buildings that held so much personal historical value. My Opa's childhood home is not as beautiful as I imagine it once was; it looks a little run down. I would love to take it back and give it life again, but it is not mine to have. The garden is gone also.
I am actually quite in the middle of nowhere, being far up in the flat, northern atmosphere of west Germany. Did you know that Germany is only divided in conversation into as West and East? I mentioned "central Germany" once and was informed that there is no such thing. It is likely a run off from the days when Germany actually was divided into an East and into a West, although perhaps they should start to adopt the idea of there being a central area, and in that process emphasize that it is a whole. As it were, I am actually in the West and very close to the Netherlands (close in Canadian terms; an hour drive seems close to me, and incredibly long to the Germans, but it is all a matter of personal opinion in the end), and am staying in my family's hotel, Hotel Wuebbolt. Interestingly enough, my cousins live in a hotel. It is beautiful; fresh, clean, with a comfortable feel and several gorgeous Christmas decorations throughout. It is really close to the centre of town, and from my window I have the most amazing view of the church tower. I count myself as one of the luckiest people right here, sitting at my little table in my cozy little room. Snow has coated everything. It is a complete and utter "winter wonderland," complete with shining Christmas lights.
And my favourite part, aside from my adoring family all close by: time has stopped. In Wetzlar time has been going by too fast. Always too fast, and picking up continually, but here is has stopped. The hours trickle by as if I were watching every grain fall through an hourglass. I have talked to many back home about my growing aversion for the return to Canada. While I miss my family and my friends so much, along with the comfortable familiarity of being within Guelph and on my gorgeous campus, I cannot help but fear the return of the mundane; I fear when things will become too familiar again. I have been bitten by the travelling bug, and there is still far too much to see. Certainly I am begining to loath the German's unfamiliarity with snow. A trip to Weimar was cancelled this past Tuesday because bus drivers did not know how to handle 5cm (if that) of snow. The Canadian bus driver balks at that much snow. And yet despite all of that, I want to stay so badly. It took me 8 hours to get here by train due to a major snow storm along the way, when it really should have taken under 6 hours, but I can truely say that I hardly cared. Being an hour late into Bremen for my connection to Rechterfeld Station (by Visbek) meant that I had an extra hour (waiting for the next train) to use in the tiny Christmas market runoff outside of the Bremen station. I had some Gluhwein and talked with some very drunk locals. People seem very eager to talk about life in Canada with me. They do not have stereotypical misconceptions, but they are very taken aback by the nature and space that we have. I, along with others, take it for granted I guess, and to the everyday German, starved for space in such a densely populated space, we Canadians are pretty darn lucky. Yes, I have been exceptionally fortunate as of late. A wonderful family in Canada, a wonderful family here, a fantastic group of friends worldwide, good health, the sensation of being alive again, and the opportunity to travel with neverending support and encouragement. Much in me has changed, and now I will need to determine how I can incorporate this greater, new view of life, into my old structure back in Canada. Nothing seems too big to handle though. Coming home will just take a little work.

Tomorrow is a day to visit Weihnachtsmarkts in Northern Germany. Combined with my friend Leslie (here also on her Fall semester abroad from Guelph Uni), I think we will have covered every Weihnachtsmarkt that there is to see in West Germany.

Candles

Tor!!

There is nothing like a German Fußball game.

A week ago today (Okt. 6. 2010) I found myself encircled by Frankfurters at the Commerzbank-Arena in Frankfurt, Deutschland. To my left sat Tom and Mia, burrowed into their warm jackets, just as I was into mine, from the cool wind sweeping in over the sides of the benches. To my right sat the most devoted Frankfurt fans; there to cheer on their home team. Astrid had warned me that when Germans gather to watch Fußball, it is to truely watch Fußball. I was actually seated in the quiter area. The die-hard fans, I think, never sat down for the entire duration of the game. Singing, cheering, jumping, hailing, and hissing when the other team had the ball; the entire stadium was there for Frankfurt.

The game was against a little city from out of nowhere-Germany called Wolfsburg. Frankfurt has an excellent team, so there was little hope for their opponents, but they put up a good fight and had a few devoted fans there to support them. I mean literally a few though; perhaps 60 people against the thousands of Frankfurt devotees. The Wolfsburg fans were actually few enough to require a small army of security to surround them. My reasoning is that the security were there to protect them from the crazy Frankfurters; indeed upon entering the stadium grounds we were all pated down and our bags checked for anything that we might throw. Very amusing and a little concerning for a Canadian new to the experience. I could hardly believe the extensive protective measures taken.

The day was rainy, so the dome was covered over (little help to me, though, for I was already soaked from walking from the parking lot 2km away). Cozy inside, the first thing to do is get a beer and a pretzel or wurst. They trust us not to throw that at the ref (who would waste beer?). Then find yourself a good view and settle in. The players came on while fans sang a traditional game song:

Ohhhhhh, wie ist das schön!
Ohhhhhh, wie ist das schön!
Sowas hat man lange nicht gesehn, so schön, SO SCHÖN!
Zwo, Drei, Vier, Ohhhhhh, wie ist das schön!
Ohhhhhh, wie ist das schön!
Sowas hat man lange nicht gesehn, so schön, SO SCHÖN!

So ein Tag, so wunderschön wie heute!
So ein Tag, der dürfte nie vergehn!
So ein Tag, auf den ich mich so freute.
So ein Tag, der dürfte nie vergehn!

Ohhhhhh, wie ist das schön!
Ohhhhhh, wie ist das schön!
Sowas hat man lange nicht gesehn, so schön, SO SCHÖN! (JaJaJa!)
Ohhhhhh, wie ist das schön! (schön!)
Ohhhhhh, wie ist das schön! (so schön!)
Sowas hat man lange nicht gesehn, so schön, SO SCHÖN!

DANKE!
BITTE!
...

The game started slow, the ball passing from side-to-side with little threat. Then Frankfurt stepped it up. Wolfsburg scrammbled to gain control of the ball but Gekas (24), the team star made contact and got results. The first score (Tor!) came in at 24 minutes. Pumped up, the Eintracht Frankfurt pulled in their second goal at 38 minutes by player 27, Schwegler. Each Tor led to a frenzy in the crowd. The Frankfurter fans showed their approval. Minute 46 signaled half-time.

About 15 minutes later the next half began. Frankfurt took the field to loud cheers, while Wolfsburg snuck on during loud jeering. I do think that the responses of the fans have a major effect on the players, and the Wolfsburg fan cheers were continually overpowered by piercing whistling. Minute 54, Gekas (24) pulled in another Tor, no problem. It was not looking good for Wolfsburg, but then for a minute it turned around. A minute is all you need, and minute 66 saw a Tor finally coming in from Wolfsburg. The hissing and pierce whistles coming in after that one were more than a person can handle. The Germans are definitely intense about their game.

Wolfsburg had shown that they could score after all and so the pace continued to pick up after that. The lead was not as far ahead as before. No more scores were seen, but not for a lack of trying and a few close calls. The fans got louder, the players more aggressive. After one Wolfsburg player sent a Frankfurt player into a summer-sault, there was a close fight. The Frankfurter got up close into the other's face and threw a false punch. The Wolfsburg player actually fell to a huddled position, feigning as though he had been hit. From all around the stadium I could here "Schauchspieler" (which means "actor") as angered fans jumped to their feet. No penalty was given, since there had actually been no contact. Komisch.

Towards the end two Frankfurt players were traded out with new ones. One because of an injury, the other for I have no idea why, since there were only 2 minutes left. But it ended soon enough with a 3-1 win for Frankfurt. We hailed the players as they hailed the fans, and Mia, Tom, and I filed out of the stadium with all of the other fans - like ants from an anthill - and walked the 2 km back to the car. It had at least stopped raining.

Following the game Tom took us to see where he, Astrid, and a baby Mia had once  lived in Frankfurt. Having a house in the city costs millions, so what we actually saw were some very nice apartments. We then went to a VERY traditional German restaurant, one that had been in the family for generations. I tried for the first time Blutwurst, and had a main dish of  Ribbchen and sauerkraut. Pretty darn German of me.

The lessons from the day: (1) it costs millions to live in a house in the city but even in the city the old history still peeks through, (2) Fußball fans are intense (I dare say more so than hockey fans in Canada), and (3) if you are ever feeling lonely or out of place in Germany, then attend a Fußball game. You will instantly feel like part of the country (provided that you are there for the most popular team) - indeed I had to laugh at myself for how into the game I got myself, having never known the teams before that game.

-Candles

Zurückfallen

The weekend has been filled with so many breath-taking moments, that I hardly remember why I had earlier in the week felt homesick. But I do remember. It stemmed from an inactivity, and from a brief uncomfortableness with the German language. I had become so stagnant, so reliant on routine, that I had wanted everything to be perfect within that routine, particularly my language skills. Yet when I had an especially challenging day with communication, the stability of my routine was challenged and I was made uncomfortable again, but in a bad way. I just needed a little shaking, a bit more sleep, and some time talking to those back home to put my position back into perspective; I am in Germany, I am actively living out a dream I formulated years ago, and I am in the best possible position to learn from the culture I have so long been fascinated with (what with living among the people and all). Insecurities still exist, but with focus back in the foreground, I think that I can once again be a little more gutsy and feel a lot less insecure. I have two months left, and I have every intention of throwing myself into them. I want to look back and see that I have learned. No regrets.

That which finally grounded me was to actually break up the routine, rather than to follow it. I felt guilty, really, to not be travelling in every spare moment, or to be in the world practicing my German. Even a trip to the gorcery store can be enough to lighten my mood because I am not so isolated within my space, worrying about assignments that need completing. Those things will work themselves out, and I have promised myself to work a little bit each day on studying vocabulary and writing my psychology paper. Rather than fret, I forced myself out this weekend; it is so easy to turn down invitation when in a rut. On Saturday I visited "Flohmarkt," a sort of outdoor flea market, as well as a Karstadt shopping centre with my Au-pair partner-in-crime, Caillin. I do not even recall if I have mentioned Caillin in this blog yet, but briefly, she hails from Namibia (Southern Africa) and works as an Au-Pair for another family here in Wetzlar-Muenchholzhausen. It is a little comical to have suddenly two au-pairs in the small bedroom community that I believe till now had never had an au-pair, but it is a comfort for both of us to have another contact and friend so near. She of course will have to visit me in Canada, but first she has about 10 more months left working. The family that Caillin works for picked us up from Karstadt (it is located in the neigbouring city, Giessen) at around noon and we headed off to make apple juice. Or rather, we went to watch apple juice being made. The family had several apples (an understatement), and according to Caillin, they had stayed up very late pressing juice by hand into large containers the previous day. This time they had hired out a machine press and the job was done much faster. Regardless of how it is pressed though, fresh, organic apple juice has by far the best flavour.

Fall has definitely arrived in Hessen, and the forests around me are a near pure yellow. I do miss the red and orange that bedecks the trees in Canada, but it is still an incredible comfort to take a drive through the country and these yellow trees. It reminds me of the vast expanse of home, and reminds me just how much I love to be out of the city and within that absolute purity. I adore the farms around also, and the soft cows with their thick hide. The cows appear to have such a great beard around their necks and give off the appearance of being very well fed. It must be the thick grass. The Armbrusters and I went for a long drive today through said country, to visit the town where Tom was born and to see a couple of castles. First we passed through Braunfels to see the Schloss (castle) on the top of the hill. The town is actually quite small, but the architecture within is unbelievable. I stopped not for a moment to remove my jaw from the floor; I was simply too busy oogling and wondering why it was I ever gave up on architecture (visiting a second castle 10 min away where the floors slanted suddenly reminded me why; I terribly dislike physics). If I ever did get swept back up into the subject, I can guarantee that I will be returning to work in Europe in restoration. To preserve buildings like these everyday, and to learn every little bit of their history, would be a pleasure. The Schloss Braunfels, I believe, is still inhabited by one of the original families, making it not open to the public, and making me a little jealous that I do not live in a gorgeous castle up in the trees.

The second castle was Schloss Weilburg in the Hessen town, Weilburg. This is where Tom was born and although we did not do too much sightseeing of the town, our main goal was the castle. Built into and on top of a large rock edifice reaching down into the river Lahn, one feels as though they can look out over the whole world. The grounds are amazing, and since 1935 the schloss has been a public museum only available through guided tour. There are several sections built at different times, but everything is quite well preserved. I lost count of the number of parlours, and  learned that certain parlours were colour decorated according to the season that they would primarily be used in. The room that really gained my attention was the tea room. It was absolutely beautiful, and I would do near anything for the chandelier. Absolutely exquisit, all of it. A bedroom of one of the family members, though, in burned into my retinae in a less than pleasing way. The walls were the most vibrant shade of blue, near electric, and with such tall ceilings it was a lot to take in at once. I dragged my jaw along all the way through the tour regardless. Sometimes I really wish that I could travel time.

Today, I know, is Halloween, and while it is not celebrated by many in Germany, I wish everyone a great time back home. I have always enjoyed the day. It is also our zone's time changeover. The Guelph region will not have theirs until November 7, which means that for the next week I will only by 5 hours ahead. I do love gaining an hour.

- Candles

And miles to go before I sleep.

Love a good poem.

Stopping by Woods on a Snowy Evening

Robert Frost

Whose woods these are I think I know.
His house is in the village, though;
He will not see me stopping here
To watch his woods fill up with snow.

My little horse must think it queer
To stop without a farmhouse near
Between the woods and frozen lake
The darkest evening of the year.

He gives his harness bells a shake
To ask if there is some mistake.
The only other sounds the sweep
Of easy wind and downy flake.

The woods are lovely, dark, and deep,
But I have promises to keep,
And miles to go before I sleep,
And miles to go before I sleep.

-Candles 

What a German Makes: Food Edition

The Germans know their food.

1. How much Hazelnut do they use here!? All chocolate, cookies, and cakes seems to have some degree of Hazelnut as part of the ingredients. I don't even taste the difference anymore, but I personally prefer almonds.
2. They have no idea what pie is, and it's very hard to explain in German.
3. The majority of their milk comes in little boxes, and therefore does not require refridgerating before opening.
4. Bread is always fresh, and for that reason you will always find a bakery nearby.
5. Coffee to go? Unlikely. This probably relates to the German ideal of enjoying/concentrating on one thing at a time, so when you want to buy a coffee, be prepared to sit down for a while with a ceramic mug.
6. The same really goes for any meal you eat; the preferred way is to sit down and enjoy every bite. It makes me sad, actually, that we're always eating on the go or while studying or while watching TV.
7. Grimminger = Tim Hortons. When visiting Mannheim, Leslie pointed them out, and they really do sit on EVERY corner. I can attest to their coffee or food, but it's likely better.
8. 1,99 Euro wine bottles/boxes. And they actually are better than most wines.
9. They have SO much champagne here, but it actually tastes really good. The champagne in Canada is pretty gross.
10. Mettbroetchen! The concept of raw ground beef or pork on a fresh roll is a little worrisom, but they know how to do it right here, and it is delicious. 
11. The market has aisles and aisles of fresh meat and cheese, plus a large fresh bakery. It is evident where the focus is for food.

12.  Street markets are very common on weekends, and often times they will be set up in a random parking lot every weekend.

13. The same can be said for random produce stands being set up for a day outside of a shopping centre or train station. One moment they’re there, the next they’re gone again.

14. Brezeln. Soft pretzels, hard pretzels, plain, salted, or covered in candy pieces; these little (or large) twisted things of goodness are EVERYWHERE. That being said, potato chips aren’t popular here in consequence. 

15. Haribo leads the pack in gummy candies, and Kinder surprise is one of the largest suppliers of chocolate for children.

16. All chocolate here is pretty cheap, but oh so delicious.

17. There are hot dogs in jars!!

18. Missing home? Just visit the "American" section in the foreign foods aisle. We're right next to "Mexican." 

-Candles

What a German Makes: Part 1

I fully expected that "Google" would switch into German, but today was the first time I logged into my blog and found all of the links in German also. That was a sudden switch!

Today is a ridiculously disgusting one. When I talked to my Opa last weekend, he said that when the weather in Germany is nice, it's really nice, but when it's bad, then is it ever bad! And today it is a mixture of cold, bitter wind, and pelting rain. It inspires one to hide beneath the covers. This dramatic weather, though, is a good representation of the German people, I think. The German never leaves a task unfinished, a thought uncontemplated, or a meal unsavoured. A visitor will find the entire country always on the go, and never late (with the few exceptions, of course); but they get things done and enjoy the little pleasures of life while doing so. On our train ride back to Wetzlar from Kassel last week, Leslie and I made a list together of the differences we noted in our new environment. While naturally it's difficult to recall everything on the spot, here are a few things that we have written down:

1. The are a few key phrases that the German will use in response to a statement: OK, Super, Cool, and Toll! "OK" was the one that struck me first as when someone used it against my statements, they said it in such a tone as to having me wonder, "Did they understand what I had just said?" But they seem to know, and "OK" has become a part of my vocabulary also, except, perhaps, with the German accent that ladens these words.
2. The German "slow-train" is the equivalent of the Canadian "fast-train." In other words, we have nothing to even compare to their fast-trains, and I find it amusing when the German complains at having to take the local trains.
3. Like their weather, the Germans are always "go-go-go." Even my German language teacher commented on how the people will put work ahead of almost everything. I do not wonder why they are all so successful.
4. The people do not multitask, and for that they tend to get more done. Studies suggest that multitasking undermines our efficiency, so they appear to have it right in this country.
5. The people also tend to spend less time thinking about methods and procedures, and just go ahead and do what needs to be done. Consequently they get more done while we are still suggesting different ways to approach a problem. (This is a habit of mine that I intend to break)
6. The outlets are huge, the light switches are backwards, and the toilets flush from the wall. I'm going to be really messed up when I return home.
7. Hang dry and iron every piece of clothing that you have. Seriously. I do a lot of ironing around here.
8. Everyone here drives a standard, and mercedes is not uncommon. In fact, most buses and taxis are mercedes.
9. Television programs for children are freaky! I watched a show on KiKa with Mia the other week that focused on a cartoon groundhog trying to figure out who had shat on his head. Each animal he questioned would reply with, "No", and then would proceed to show him how they "made." Shows from the 60's and 70's are also still very popular, such as "Pipi Langstrumpf" and "Sandmaennchen."
10. The German is always on time or a little late. Never get on a train that you think is yours, just early. You'll likely be going to the wrong destination.
11. Every house has storm shutters built into the structure. They make for really nice, dark rooms for sleeping. It was perfect when I was jet-lagged.
12. The pillows are huge, flat, and often very soft! I usually fold mine in half to make a thicker pillow, like I'm used to in Canada.
13. They use a comforter and nothing else, but it's always very fluffy and warm.
14. Immer "gerade aus." When you ask for directions, this is what you'll always hear; they always tell you to keep going straight ahead. Just buy a map.
15. Face it, you're going to have to pay to pee in a public washroom. At least they are usually pretty clean.
16. Everyone is well behaved: children, dogs. There is an emphasis on politeness and representation (although Canadians still hold the reputation of being the most polite). I have noticed, however, a small temper tantrum epidemic among the you children. I wonder how long that will last.
17. There is this unwritten policy where you simply don't talk about your illness, especially when psychological. Whereas North American are more open and accepting of these issues, and that openness is inspiring more people to seek treatment, it is still unfortunately a taboo here to have depression or the like.

Stay tuned for a food editon, and for later lists as I get closer to heading home.

-Candles

and when going into battle, they sang of him first of all heroes

This will likely have been my last destination weekend for a little while. My homework sits piling and there’s that edging feeling implying that I ought to begin my thesis paper; I’m suspecting that 30 pages will take a little while to write.

I’ve spent the last three weekends travelling to various locations with my dear friend Leslie. Most who read this blog have an idea of who Leslie is, but for those who don’t, I’ll clarify. She is a dear friend and former classmate from Canada who is over in University Mannheim for German exchange. We met only last winter in the Intermediate German II course, and also had Contemporary German together taught by our visiting teaching assistants (who better to teach about the state of Germany today than two Germans themselves?). Of the students from my German program over here (all of whom are also friends), Leslie is the closest geographically; not that that is the only reason why I travel with her often. Certainly it helps, but I am very glad that she is close by because it is only magnifying the friendship we started back home. Fortunately we have very complementary personalities, and also share a lot of the same Canadian morals and ideals (although I think that I notice that latter fact more now because we are among a completely different culture). Leslie came approximately 3 weeks earlier than I to Germany, and was the first of all of us here now to arrive. I have to give here especial credit for the fact that this is her first time over to Europe and she managed to do it of her own will. Few people have the courage to do that. 

The first weekend of these consecutive three was our trip to Berlin, which I’ve already written about. The second weekend I visited Leslie’s home turf: Mannheim. It was not my first time to Mannheim since I have been here. The first was to see Leslie again for the first time since she had left. We went out dancing and to meet her numerous new international program friends. Several hail from Norway. The second was last weekend for Oktoberfest. When I had first arrived in Germany there had been talk of my possibly visiting Munich for the celebration, which would have been amazing; but as the weekend approached it proved to be increasingly difficult for anyone in this house to make it there. Tom did manage to go to visit with friends, at the table that the group of them reserve each year (and as you can likely imagine, reserving a table is incredibly difficult); but I am also told that he had to sleep on the kitchen floor of his friends’ flat for lack of accommodation space. Mannheim’s Oktoberfest, while I was warned would be small, was still amazing fun and a little chaotic. The most important features of the night were the good friends, the beer, and the carnival rides. I don’t recall Oktoberfest in Kitchener ever having that many fun rides, and really, all that I needed was the one beer tent to dance on tables with my friends in while having a “Maß” of beer (which is a unit of measurement; 1 litre). I’ll also note that I enjoy carnival rides much more, and am more likely to do the ridiculous ones, after I’ve had a beer to calm the nerves. I also become much better at bumper cars in that I can actually steer without getting caught in a corner. I think the note here is that I over think things too much when I should rather just be doing; I need to work on that. Mannheimer Oktoberfest was also the fateful event that saw Leslie losing her camera. There is still a small degree of hope left that it will be found when they dismantle the rides this week, but it is unfortunate that we lost the pictures that were on the card from that night, as there were some great ones. All in all, a great evening, with one other note (you had to know it was coming, Leslie), we managed to get lost heading back to her student dorm. Somehow we ended on the wrong street car and wound up on the other side of the river from where we wanted to go. When we got off in Ludwigshafen, it was suggested that we walk back. I of course had no idea where we were so I followed Leslie, who walked us in a giant circle back to the same station we got off on! Ha-ha. We eventually got the right streetcar home... at 3am. Leslie always says that she is directionally challenged, and while she did lead us well in Berlin on our last day, she’s now cancelled it out. Next time, Leslie!

Just this past weekend Leslie finally came to visit me in Wetzlar. There may not be a lot to do around Wetzlar, but it is nice because I am living with a young family. Saturday was Mia’s birthday party with a witch theme. It is common here for children parties to have different themes, and thus Mia’s was full of costumes, witches brew and a pirate cake. Leslie arrived later that Saturday night, after the 10 children had gone home, and she and I headed to the local bar in Muenchholzhausen (the bedroom community of Wetzlar that I live in) to meet with my other au-pair friend, Caillin. A night out with Leslie is never boring. The three of us had a couple of drinks together and ordered some fries, after which one of the old bar flies proceeded to move closer and closer into Leslie’s space. At one point he offered to help her to finish her fries, then put her napkin closer to her face, saying that it was for wiping it, and then (although I didn’t see this part), put his hand randomly in front of her face. Ha-ha! We labelled it “the German hand!” I don’t know how Leslie doesn’t laugh out loud during these. The bar tender, whose child attends the same kindergarten as Mia, helped to shoo the man away. I think that this may be his regular behaviour. The Sunday following, Leslie and I went into the Altstadt with Tom and Mia. For a few hours, Leslie and I explored alone, during which she also agreed that it is an adorable little place. We had a coffee in the old building where the seat of the Holy Roman Empire’s highest court (Reichskammergericht) once was located, and where famous German author Goethe also was as a trainee (before he took to writing). Leslie and I also cooked for the family that day, making fajitas (which the Germans know, but confess have never mastered) and also Nanaimo bars out of British Columbia. It was my first time making and eating this dessert, but delicious!! On Monday I had the day off work and Leslie and I headed to Kassel to meet up with our friend David from Berlin. He actually lives in Kassel and attends the University there, so he offered to show us around. If I had to pick a city to compare it to, I would choose Collingwood. It is very large and scenic, with several hills to climb up, particularly one with a large tribute to Hercules (“Der Herkules”). The only main difference was that Kassel is larger and has a greater population, likely because of the University. There also appears to be a very large Turkish population there (much to the bane of the local Germans) and so there isn’t a street corner without a Döner stand. I will never eat a Döner. Ew. The weather was phenomenal and so at one point we laid out on the lawn of the local palace (now a planetarium) and I felt for a moment like I was at the Guelph campus on Johnston green. Then I opened my eyes and saw the very symmetrical palace and landscape, appearing straight out of the Jane Austen novels, and I was brought back to the reality of my situation – not that I’m complaining about laying on a lawn in Germany. Leslie and I trained back late, after which there was a small fiasco with the bus in that it never came. Although while waiting another bus driver (who was also foreign) hit on Leslie and insisted she take his number so that when she got a new cell phone (have I mentioned yet that she’s also lost her cell phone) she can call him. Ha-ha. That was really, really difficult not to laugh at during. He was very forward (“Do you have a boyfriend? Because I don’t have a girlfriend.”) and completely ignored me until he needed a piece of paper, or whenever he was trying to compliment Les (“She’s really sweet, don’t you think?” – no duh!). Poor Leslie. She IS very sweet, to the point where she’s cornered into taking down phone numbers. Lucky her to have lost her cell phone! As THAT bus pulled away we did burst out laughing, then took a short cab ride to my house. Leslie took a train back to Mannheim early this morning. I adore that kid, and I’m glad that we’ll be returning to Canada on the same day (everyone else is staying the full year).

Der Herkules

Former seat of Reichskammergericht

And here I am now, sitting in my apartment trying to recall everything about this past weekend and also planning to put the rest of my free time into my assignments and placement. I’ll likely not travel again on my own until late November and early- to mid-December, when I hope to visit both Freiburg and Mannheim for one more weekend, and then up to Visbeck to see my relatives (I met them all for the first time 2 years ago; I’m very excited to go back and to spend some more time with them). There’s still the possibility of travel with the family I work for, but until then, its work, work, work. I need to save some money here too. 

-Candles

Mettbrötchen

I went grocery shopping with Tom the other night, and I can barely express the humour in seeing "Amerika" in the foreign foods section, right next to Mexican and Chinese cuisine. Since when did HP Sauce and marshmallows become such a unique delight. It was comforting, though, to read labels in English again; for a moment I felt like I was back in the Zehrs across from my house.

I also ate the strangest thing on our way out to the car: a Mettbrötchen. Essentially, it's raw ground beef or pork on a fresh roll, which after having been told my whole life never to eat raw meat, I found quite strange. Yet, it was incredibly delicious also, and is something I highly recommend that any non-vegetarian visiting Germany seek out. Of course there are a few rules to it though. Make sure that it's very fresh, as in made that very day - the ground meat, I mean. Otherwise you risk getting sick. Also, it's best on a soft, fresh roll, and can also have raw onions added (although I ate mine without). The best places to find it, I think, are at butchers or at a market. The supermarkets here tend to be a little different in that they're larger and more focused on fresh breads, meats, vegetables, and cheeses. There are always huge meat counters, warm bakeries, and enormous cheese sections. I think that I could spend an entire day in there and still not discover all that they have. Mmmm, köstlich.

-Candles

I want to go back!... Berlin, Day 3

Day three was even earlier, since we had very little time left. I was to catch my train at 15:30 and we wanted to see more museums. On the way out we actually stopped to do a lot of souvenir shopping. In Berlin one might especially notice that the cross walk signals are different in the East and in the West. The West has this simple (boring) and modern looking green or red man, whereas the East has kept fast to their squat little Ampelmann with his little hat. It's become a cult symbol, and you can always tell when you've crossed over to one side or the other. That's actually one of the ways that we gauged it. There is a store that we went into dedicated entirely to this little man! I bought a pin, but there are cups, shirts, ice cube trays even; you could have little Ampelmaenner floating around in your drink. Unfortunately though there were no flags. Leslie was hoping to find one, I know.

Ampelmann

First we walked to the German Historical Museum, which unfortunately happens to be closed on Mondays, but right next door was the Berliner Dom, and so after a short photo shoot outside of the museum (that building is gorgeous), we went into the church. I found the outside of the Dom already impressive, but the inside was beyond words. That seems to be a common theme here, actually, "beyond words." Words escaped me then as they escape me now, while the majority of the trip was spent ooo-ing and awe-ing. Egal! The inside of the church was very clean and decadent. The inside of the dome itself was beautifully decorated with gold inlay, and everything to the smallest details on the pews was carefully carved out. I'm certain that if I were to go again I would notice more and more that I didn't see this time, especially since my eyes were so hungrily soaking up whatever could be crammed into my brain in such a short period of time. Mass was in session when we first entered, so were required to be quiet while inside the main area of worship, but upstairs is also a very interesting installation detailing the construction of the Dom. I've mentioned my love for architecture before and here I could actually see all of the detailed drawings from the architect, and the small models that they had built to showcase their design in 3-D. Some of these models are over a hundred years old, which makes them that much cooler to see. In this mini museum also is where Leslie and I stopped for a brief moment to sit on a bench by a window overlooking Berlin. We both reflected, or rather gushed, again over how everything had fallen into place for this adventure. I also noted that these floor-to-ceiling windows, and the high ceilings also, are something that I want in my own home (whether I design and build my own house or purchase an old one already tailor-made). I could already imagine myself sitting by such a window with a cup of tea on a cold, rainy day as such, sitting in my own home office/library. I want that moment someday, I really do, and I hope that I will and can then look back to this memory right in the Dom. Al, Leslie, and I were also able to climb, in the most convoluted fashion, up to the top of the Dom itself. Al wasn't too fond of the idea, but Leslie and I "encouraged" him. It was well worth it though; after hundreds of tiny old steps you come out at a veranda running round the outside of the Dom and can see everything, including where our next stop was to be, the DDR Museum. Before the DDR Museum, though, we went into the crypt of the Dom. I'm not sure if people often think to go down there, but it was so amazing. We actually almost skipped that part, but underneath you can find the tombs of several important Germans (specifically the royals). The most impressive was that of Friedrich Wilhelm, Elector of Brandenburg. Known in our history books as Friedrich der Große (it actually reads that on the large stone coffin; Frederick the Great), this man played a key role in domestic reforms and set up Prussia for elevation from duchy to kingdom. It was unbelievable to stand before where his actual body lays. It was the first time I had goosebumps without actually being cold.

Leslie & I outside of Museum

Berliner Dom (on a rainy day)

The distinction between the East and West naturally goes beyond the Ampelmann. In this tiny museum one can explore said differences, such as the different brand titles for anything from Cola to cars. Actually, inside of the museum is a little Trabant (THE car of the East; the West can be linked to the Volkswagan) that we were able to play around in; these cars are very tiny, mind you. It's interesting to see the distinctive differences outlined, especially to read about the ideal that the leaders of the East had intended to achieve. They appeared to want this perfect people, a society straight out of Pleasantville where everyone loved their country and were respectable and successfull. It of course didn't pan out, otherwise we might have been visiting a very different Berlin, not the one integrated into the West.

Time was now running out. Quickly now we walked over to the Brandenburger Tor, the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe (where I got artsy with my camera and the cement blocks covered with rain droplets, and where I also attempted to jump up behind and scare Leslie again... no success; she was on to me), and finally the Soviet War Memorial. Then came the time to say goodbye to our dear new friend and travel partner, Al (*tear*), who left on the U-Bahn back to the hostel (his next stop with his mates was to be Poland), and Leslie and I headed towards the nearby Hauptbahnhof for my train; Leslie was to leave shortly after me.

I took the fast train home, which was fine by me because by now I was beyond exhausted. Yet with each passing hour on the train I longed more and more to turn around and run back. If only I had had the means to remain longer, or the time to... if only. But reflecting back I must say that it was one of the highlights of my life; and to think that I almost didn't go, that I almost postponed it. The weekend was full of so many "almost" moments that could have led us in so many direction. What if we had postponed the trip? What if we had never found that hostel and had stayed in the weird hotel? What if we had gone straight to bed insteead of going upstairs to meet other travellers? What is we had actually met up with Jonas (our past German TA who we actually were trying to see at some point while we were in Berlin)? Things really do work themselves out sometimes towards a particular goal, and save maybe for some sunny weather, I can't see how it would have been any better. Even the rain though I didn't mind so much, although right now I have the cold from hell. I just especially like to think about how perfectly everything came together on its own.

September 25th - 27th, 2010, forever the best weekend of my life!

Candles